Education Center
AKOYA
Akoya means saltwater in Japanese. In the early 1900s, the Japanese first developed the cultivation of saltwater pearls.
Akoya pearls are produced in Akoya Oyster(also called Pinctada Fucata Oyster). They are mainly grown in ocean salt waters of Japan and China.
What Makes Akoya Pearls Beautiful?
A smooth, unblemished surface, shimmering iridescent flashes of pink, blue, green and (in the best cases) violet, shimmering over a white primary body color, and of course, their trademark “ball bearing” or mirror-like luster.
These are all the hallmarks of beauty that we expect to see in a high grade Akoya pearl strand.
A cultured saltwater Akoya pearl is the product of a synthesis between humans and nature. A mother of pearl shell bead nucleus is inserted into the host oyster, along with a square of donor mantle tissue from another oyster who has previously borne pearls of high or exceptional value, and the oyster is left to begin secreting around the nucleus, eventually forming a pearl.
The crystalline nacre layers are made up of microscopic aragonite platelets composed of calcium carbonate, and bound together with an organic “glue” of sorts called conchiolin. The aragonite platelets are fairly transparent to slightly tinged in color, able to both reflect and refract light rays striking their surfaces, giving pearls their trademark pearl luster and subtle glow. The tighter and more compact this arrangement of crystal is, the brighter the luster the pearl displays and the greater the amount of orient or iridescence.
Akoya Pearl Value
Akoya pearls are considered valuable because their production rate is fairly low in comparison with the bounty of the freshwater pearl harvest. Only one nucleus can be inserted into an Akoya oyster, and the successful production rate is only 20%. Among all the produced Akoya pearls, only 5-10% of them are high quality pearls.
Akoya Pearl Size
Akoya pearls range from 2-10mm in size. Suitable for a work environment, small pearls are more subdued while larger pearls can achieve a luxurious look. Akoya pearls over 9mm are very rare and they command a top price in the market.
Akoya Pearl Color
Colors of Akoya pearls include body color and overtone color (or hue color). Body colors are white, cream, pink, yellow, golden and silver. Overtone color is one or two colors that overlie the body color. You can see overtone colors in the central areas of the pearls under light. Overtone colors include pink and green. The most desirable color is white with pink overtones because it flatters the widest range of skin tones. Akoya pearls have the most beautiful combination of body and overtone colors among all pearls.
Akoya Pearl Luster and Nacre
Akoya pearls contain Calcium Carbonate (CaCo3) (91.6%), water (4%) and other organic materials (4%). Thousands of layers of thin calcium carbonate crystals form Akoya pearl nacre. Nacre thickness affects color, luster and durability of an Akoya pearl. If an Akoya pearl has a thick coating of nacre, its beauty will last a life time.
Akoya Pearl Shape
The basic shape for Akoya pearls is round. Round is considered the best shape, followed by semi-round, semi-baroque and baroque.
Akoya Pearls are Popular
Akoya pearls are the most popular among all types of pearls. They are highly valued for their rich color, radiant deep luster and appealing roundness.
Seven factors determine the value of Akoya pearls: luster, nacre thickness, surface quality, size, shape, color, and pearl matching.
High quality Akoya pearls possess a mirror-like finish, radiant brilliance, very clean and smooth surface, and perfectly round shape.
SOUTH SEA PEARL
South Sea pearls are the most sought after cultivated pearls in the world. They exhibit the highest levels of perfection in all the value factors – size, shape, surface cleanliness, and luster or nacre thickness. Their long cultivation time and limited cultivation area make them the rarest and most valuable pearls available.
In this guide, you’ll learn all about South Sea Pearls and what makes them so special.
What Are South Sea Pearls?
South Sea pearls are the rarest of all the types of pearls. They are cultivated in saltwater and have thicker nacre layers than any other pear, averaging around 2-4mm thick. Like most saltwater oysters, they are bead nucleated. Their growth period is 2-4 years, about double that of Akoya pearls. South Sea pearl oysters are highly susceptible to disease and stress, so their cultivation is limited to their native, natural environment.
They come in colors ranging from white to gold and have a luster that is described as soft and luxurious. Their “satiny” look, as described by jewellers, differs from Akoya pearls, which look hard in comparison. They seem to radiate with a glow from within, rather than having the mirror-like shine expected from Akoya pearls. This is because of the large aragonite platelets they form from.
Where Do South Sea Pearls Come From?
Wondering where pearls come from?
It takes much time and dedicated skill to culture white and golden South Sea pearls. The majority of white South Sea pearls are cultivated in the waters northwest of Australia, while most golden South Sea pearls are produced in the Philippines and Indonesia.
In Australia, the majority of the pearls are harvested in the wild, and supplemented with hatchery-bred pearls to maintain a healthy supply. In other areas, however, the opposite is true, with hatchery-bred pearls being in the majority. Government organisations in these countries closely monitor the sources to ensure that they are well maintained to continue their production.
The Australian city, Broome, has been the commercial center for the South Sea pearling industry since the 1850s. Back then, the city had a seedy reputation, but has now transformed into a beautiful and sophisticated city that reflects the high-tech nature of their industry.
Why Are They Called South Sea Pearls?
The name “South Sea” comes from the fact that they are cultivated in the southern hemisphere, particularly around Australia. Since the larger portion of bead wearing culture resides in the northern hemisphere, to them this is the southern sea.
How To Identify South Sea Pearls
The main identifier for South Sea pearls is their size. They are larger than any other pearls because they are grown in the largest genus of oyster, the Pinctada Maxima. Their size usually ranges from 8-20mm, although they can grow much larger if they are given more time.
As previously mentioned, their luster is softer than other pearls, but that’s not to say that they can’t have a more mirror-like luster. It all depends on how they are formed and the thickness of the nacre. Generally, though, South Sea pearls have a thicker nacre than most.
South Sea Pearls Colors Shapes And Sizes
South Sea pearls come in a wide variety of shapes. Only 10-30% of each harvest is spherical or near-spherical, making strings of perfectly round South Sea pearls an incredibly rare find. The rest of the harvest would be baroque, or non-round pearls. These are also highly praised for their unique organic shapes, but are not as valuable as spherical ones.
South Sea pearls come in a wonderful variety of colors. Silver-lipped oysters produce pearls with silver, white, aqua and blue overtones, and the golden-lipped oysters produce golden, champagne, and cream over toned pearls.
Their size, as mentioned, ranges from 8-20mm in width. If they are left for longer than the average 3 years, they can potentially form even bigger pearls.
What Is The Best Color Of South Sea Pearl?
While white pearls have always been the classic choice, golden South Sea pearls are a rarer, and even more luxurious option for those looking to stand out. They can range from soft champagne colors to intense gold. Gold pearls are said to bring wealth and prosperity to the owner.
Why Are South Sea Pearls So Expensive?
Only a small percentage of South Sea pearls are perfectly spherical, so a full string of them is a rare sight indeed. Matching South Sea pearls for color, size, and general quality is a time-consuming process. A string of pearls must all have the same level of quality, so as not to outshine each other and be presented in the best way possible.
White South Sea pearls are more scarce and are larger than any other pearls, and so they command much higher prices. The price of South Sea pearls depends on their quality, shape and size, with a Golden South Sea strand going well into the thousands of dollars, and white varieties reaching even higher. It is not uncommon for a South Sea pearl necklace to range between $10 000 to $300 000 in price. Baroque South Sea pearls are usually more affordable, and are most often used individually in jewelry to showcase their unique shape.
What Is So Special About South Sea Pearls?
South Sea pearls are the largest and rarest pearls you can find. They also have the longest cultivation period and have a luxurious look that is unmatched by other pearls.
How Can I Tell If My South Sea Pearl Is Real?
This process is the same for all pearls. To tell if your pearl is real, there are a few simple methods you can use.
The first test to try is a texture test. A real pearl, when rubbed against another pearl or against your tooth, will feel slightly rough. If it’s totally smooth, then it’s not a pearl.
Real pearls will also have minor imperfections that differ from one to the other. Pearls that are perfectly spherical and look exactly the same are most likely not real.
Another excellent test is to expose your pearls to a flame. A real pearl will not sustain any damage and won’t give off a smell, while fake pearls might melt or lose their color, and will smell funny.
Real pearls will also be slightly heavy in comparison, and should be cold to the touch at first.
How To Care For And Clean South Sea Pearls
Pearls are delicate gems and their surface is susceptible to damage from strong chemicals, such as those in hairspray and other body products. You should always do your beauty routine first and then put on your pearl jewelry.
After wearing your pearls, it’s a good idea to whip them down gently with a soft, dry cloth. If you follow these rules, your pearls will stay magnificent for years to come.
TAHITI
Ancient cultures associated pearls with celestial bodies because of their spherical shape and silvery glow. Tahitian pearls—especially the black ones radiating with purple, green and silver tones—represent the dark side of the moon. Tahitian pearls come in a stunning array of colors, sizes and shapes. A pearl doesn’t have to be your June birthstone to adorn yourself in Tahitian pearls.
What Sets Tahitian Pearls Apart?
Around the world, pearls are cultivated inside the black-lipped oyster called Pinctada margaritifera, but only those from French Polynesia can officially be called Tahitian pearls. If there’s one thing that defines Tahitian pearls, it’s color. Tahitian pearls have the greatest color spectrum of any pearl type, but it's their natural black shade that set them apart as a rebel of the gemstone world.
What to Look for in Tahitian Pearls
Our Tahitian pearls, like almost all of those on the market today, are of the cultured variety and are hand-selected to find the finest gem. One of the biggest concerns among new pearl buyers is whether cultured pearls are as “real” as natural pearls — and the answer is “yes!” Cultured pearls also form inside an oyster, but with a little help from skilled pearl technicians. Cultured pearls are just as authentic—not to mention as exquisite—as natural pearls and are attainable at a more affordable price without sacrificing quality or elegance. The availability of cultured pearls makes it possible to choose the size, colors and styles that you love so you’re never limited by the scarcity of natural pearls.
· Size
Cultured pearls are sold by size rather than weight to ensure you always get fair value. Ranging from 8 mm to 18 mm, Tahitian pearls are among the largest pearl varieties.
· Color
Tahitian pearls are known for their dark gray body-color, but they come in the full spectrum of shades, from white to black. Two aspects create the rich look of Tahitian pearls: body color and overtones.
Body color describes the main color of the pearl. Tahitian pearls are best known for the signature charcoal body, but can also range from white to brown.
Overtones are the softer colors that shimmer over the body of a pearl—think of an oil slick on water. Overtones can lend green, pink, orange and silvery hues to your pearl jewelry. Their signature color once made Tahitian pearls the rarest of any pearl type—and led to plenty of copycats. With the discovery of pearl cultivation, authentic Tahitian pearls are now affordable to a much wider market.
Beware of any non-Tahitian pearls that claim to be black. These have been chemically dyed, which weakens the nacre and shortens their lifespan.
· Shape
Perfectly round pearls command the highest price, but they’re not the only choice for a statement look. Tahitian pearls make baroque and circle shapes stand out when their grooves catch the light and their subtle overtones shimmer.
· Luster
Luster is created when light reflects back through the layers of nacre that form the pearl, creating that signature glow. For an easy way to assess luster, check for your reflection in the surface of the pearl.
HOW TO TAKE CARE
Quality pearls are very durable, but proper care is necessary to keep your pearl jewelry beautiful and lustrous.
Here are important tips to care for your pearls.
· Wear them!!! Wear them at least semi-often!! Pearls were originally born in the water and benefit immensely from absorbing the oils that your skin naturally secretes throughout the day. So go ahead, put them on and show them you care.
· Gently wipe pearls with a soft cloth to remove sweat, perfume, excess oils or dirt before putting them away.
· Pearls should be stored away from other objects or jewelry that may scratch their surfaces. Wrap the pearls in linen, soft cloth, or place in a soft pouch.
· Do NOT store pearls in an airtight package such as a plastic bag: remember, pearls need moisture. If the environment is too dry, the pearls may crack. If placing the pearls in a safety deposit box or in a hot environment, leave a damp cloth nearby, and try to get them out of there as quickly as you can.
· Keep pearls away from chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, ammonia, hairspray, perfume, and cosmetics, as these substances will damage the pearl surface.
· Make sure to put pearls on after finished spraying perfume or hairspray and putting on makeup. Be very careful with chemical substances as they will eat holes in the pearl nacre.
· Remove pearls before exercising to keep them away from perspiration.
· Do not submerge your pearls in water - no showers, no dishes, no swimming. The chlorine in the water will eat away at the epoxy securing the pearls to their mountings, and soaking the silk your pearls are strung on causes it to stretch out and break early.
· Avoid hanging the pearl necklace for on a hook for storage; this places un-necessary strain on the silk and stretches out the necklace.
· Restring pearls once every two to three years, or once a year if you wear them weekly. Be sure to have each pearl knotted separately, preferably with silk, so they do not rub together and wear on the pearl nacre. If pearls are very small, knots between each pearl may be undesirable.