Diamond Shape

There are Round, Princess, Marquise shapes of diamonds.

Diamond Color

Diamond Clarity

Diamond Cutting



The round brilliant cut diamond is the most popular shape of diamond. For hundreds of years, diamond cutters have been working with this cut to maximize its brilliance and fire. While this cut offers great flexibility within the four C’s, you will want to select higher quality grades to bring out the most brilliance within a round diamond.



Sometimes called a pillow-cut diamond, the cushion cut is a timeless cut that has earned its name for its pillow shape. Cushion cut diamonds tend to have impeccable brilliance and clarity in their appearance which can be attributed to their rounded corners and larger facets. These diamonds are available in square and rectangular shapes.



Princess cut diamonds are exceptionally brilliant because of the way they are cut and are available in both square and rectangular shapes. The color that is emitted from princess cut diamonds is very unique. While the color of other diamond is displayed mainly in the center, the princess cut diamonds show distinct color in each of the corners as well.



Oval cut diamonds have a classic appearance with a modern twist! It is a popular cut in all types of jewelry, especially in engagement rings, making it easy to match with other jewelry. It has an incredible brilliance, similar to the round brilliant cut, but also has the advantage of accentuating long, slender finders.



Combining round and marquise cuts, the teardrop style of pear shaped diamonds is exceptional. The slender pear shape will give fingers and hands a slimmer appearance while creating a soft and delicate look. Pear shaped diamonds are cut to produce maximum brilliance, so it’s important to look for excellent symmetry.



Asscher cut diamonds are often mistaken for an emerald cut because of its similar cut style; however an asscher is square rather than rectangular. Created in the early 1920s, the asscher cut has recently resurged in popularity, especially amongst celebrities.



Perfect for those looking for a unique style, radiant cut diamonds feature uniquely trimmed corners which combines the lines of an emerald cut with the brilliance of a round diamond. The sparkle of this diamond cut looks beautiful when combined with a variety of other diamond cuts.



A marquise cut diamond is a perfect shape for maximizing carat weight by emphasizing the size of the diamond. Its unique shape creates the effect of longer, more slender hands and fingers. The outline of a diamond is determined by its length to width ratio, which also provides an image of the shape and look of the diamond.


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Diameter: Width of the diamond at the widest point of the girdle (in fancy cut diamonds, the smallest diameter is used)

Table: The largest facet at the top

Crown: The top part of the diamond between the girdle and the table

Girdle: The narrow band at the diamond’s widest point

Pavilion: The bottom part of the diamond between the girdle and the culet

Culet: The fact at the bottom tip (preferable when not visible to the naked eye)

Depth: >The height of a diamond from the table to the culet

Facet: A surface or ‘face’ created when the diamond is cut

Star Facet: Triangular shaped facets surrounding the table which form a star-shape when viewed from above

Upper Girdle Facets: The 16 triangular facets that sit directly on top of the girdle

Lower Girdle Facets: The 16 triangular facets that sit directly below the girdle

Pavilion Main Facets: The 8 large four-sided facets which run from the girdle to the culet

Table Size: The table is the top horizontal facet of the diamond. The average table size is expressed as a percentage of the diamond’s average girdle diameter. While an “Excellent” grade diamond will have a table size between 52 to 62 percent, other proportions are important too. Remember that GIA doesn’t consider individual proportions in isolation.

Total Depth: The diamond’s overall depth from the surface of the table to the culet, expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.

Pavilion Depth: The pavilion is the lower proportion of a diamond from the bottom edge of the girdle to the culet. The pavilion depth is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. A pavilion depth that’s too shallow or too deep will allow light to escape from the side or bottom of the stone. A well-cut diamond will direct more light upward through the crown.

Pavilion Angle: Pavilion angle is another important dimension of the diamond, especially as it relates to a diamond’s brightness. It is the average of the angles formed by the diamond’s pavilion main facets and its girdle plane. This should fall between 40.6 to 41.8 degrees to be considered “Excellent”, providing other parameters also fit their proper ranges.

Crown Height: The crown is the upper portion of the diamond, from the top edge of the girdle to the table. The average crown height is expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. It can affect both the dispersion and brightness of a diamond.

Crown Angle: The crown angle is the angle that’s formed where the bezel facets meet the girdle plane. The crown angle in a well-cut diamond will be within 31.5 to 36.5 degrees. The crown angle has a large effect on the face-up appearance of a round brilliant-cut diamond. The best range of crown angles provide a routh for exiting light dispersion, as well as additional contrasting directions for entering light. Star Length: The horizontally projected distance from the point of the star facet to the edge of the table, relative to the distance between the table edge and the girdle edge. A well-cut diamond will range between 40 to 70 percent, when other parameters are within the correct ranges

Girdle thickness: The girdle is the middle portion of a diamond, a narrow section separating the crown from the pavilion, and functions as the diamond’s setting edge. The girdle thickness is described as a range from its thinnest to thickest areas. A thick girdle is less desirable because it unnecessarily adds weight to the stone where it matters the least (making the diamond appear smaller). An extremely thin girdle is sometimes referred to as a knife-edge, and results in a diamond that is more fragile and susceptible to chipping. Therefore, a girdle that is “medium to slightly thick” is preferred.

Lower Girdle/ Half Facet Length: This ratio is measured by calculating how long the lower girdle facets are relative to the length of the pavilion. This defines the contrast of a round brilliant cut diamond, which controls the brilliance of a diamond. The well-cut diamond will range between 65 to 90 percent. Diamonds with longer lower half facets will have a little more scintillation.

Culet: The culet is the small facet at the bottom of a diamond intended to prevent chipping and abrasion to the point. The culet size can affect face-up appearance and it’s described as the average width of the facet. Size is expressed as none, very small, small, medium, slightly large, large, very large, and extremely large. When there is no culet, it is sometimes referred to as a pointed culet. Preferably the culet will not be visible with the unaided eye, and when described as none (no culet), very small or small on a GIA report, it falls in the excellent range.

Cut refers not to a diamond’s shape (e.g. round, oval, pear, etc.) but to a diamond’s proportions, symmetry and polish. The beauty of a diamond depends more on cut than any other factor. Though extremely difficult to analyze and quantify, diamond cut has three primary effects on appearance: brilliance (the brightness created by the combination of all the white light reflections from the surface and the inside of a polished diamond), fire (the dispersion of light into the colors of the visible spectrum, seen as flashes of color), and scintillation (the flashes of light and dark, or sparkle, when a diamond or light source is moved).

When a diamond is fashioned from a rough stone, the cutter must balance optimal cut (and therefore appearance) against maximum yield (cutting the diamond to maintain as much carat weight from the rough stone as possible). Because many customers are willing to pay more for a larger, fair-cut cut diamond than for a slightly smaller, well-cut diamond, there is pressure on the cutter to sacrifice appearance for weight. This is why the Cut grade is so important; it allows the purchaser to identify those stones that were cut Fair to Poor in an effort to gain carat weight.

Diamond Cut

In the image, the same rough stone (shown in blue) can yield one of two potential diamonds:

A too-deep cut diamond (orange) would yield a significantly larger diamond, earning the diamond cutter a larger profit on his investment.

A smaller, well-cut diamond (white) may sell for less in total than the larger diamond, but it will command a higher price-per-carat not only because of its superior appearance but also due to decreased yield from the rough stone (which therefore makes the diamond more expensive to create).

Diamond Cut Proportions

Diamond proportion refers to the relationship between the size, shape, and angle of each facetof a diamond. A wide range of combinations are possible, ultimately determining the diamond’s interaction with light.

When light strikes a diamond, approximately 20% immediately reflects off the surface (as glare). Of the 80% that enters, a portion will escape through the bottom of the diamond (where the observer cannot appreciate it). A well proportioned diamond will have each facet properly placed and angled so as to maximize the amount of light that reflects back out of the crown (top) of the diamond, to the eye of the observer. This reflected light is perceived as scintillation,fire and brilliance.

In the diagram below, three common light patterns are shown. When light meets any facet of a diamond, it will either reflect (bounce back) or refract (bend while passing through the facet). The angle that the light hits the facet determines whether the majority of light reflects or refracts, which is why cut is so important.

Diamond Depth %

Depth refers to the distance between the culet and the table when the diamond is viewed from the side. Diamond depth is expressed in millimeters, and is given as the third number under “measurements” for every Lumera Diamond (the first two numbers are length and width).

Depth Table

The depth % of a diamond is calculated by dividing the depth by the width of the diamond. So, if a diamond is 3 mm in depth, and 4.5 mm in width, its depth % is 66.7. The lower the depth %, the larger a diamond of a given carat weight will appear (since most of the diamond’s size is in its width vs. in its depth).

Diamond Table %

The table % of a diamond is calculated by dividing the width of the table facet by the width of the diamond. So, if the table facet is 3 mm wide, and the diamond is 4.5 mm wide, its table % is 66.7.

A note of caution:

A diamond should not be chosen or rejected based solely on depth % or table %. Because the overall Cut grade already incorporates both factors, it should be used as the primary determinant when choosing a diamond. When comparing two diamonds of equal Cut grade, depth % and table % can then be used as further refinements, especially (in the case of depth %) if one is concerned about how large the diamond will appear.

Diamond Proportion Diagram

GIA Diamond Proportion Diagram

GIA Diamond Proportion Diagram

Every Lumera Diamond comes with a GIA Grading Report or Dossier certificate, most of which include a proportion diagram. The proportion diagram is a graphic representation of the diamond’s actual proportions.

The proportion diagram shows the diamond’s girdle size, culet size, table and depth percentages, as well as other measurements, such as the crown and pavillion angles.

Each angle and dimension is measured electronically using a light scanner. The proportion diagram is a “fingerprint” of your diamond.

Grading Diamond Cut

GIA Diamond Cut Grades

Excellent, Very Good, and Good GIA Cut Grades

Evaluating the combined effects of facet shapes and angles, girdle widthculet size,polish and symmetry on the overall appearance of a diamond is a daunting task, even for professional gemologists. Fortunately, all of these factors have already been taken into consideration when calculating the diamond’s Cut grade.

Because Cut grade provides a single rating which weighs the combined impact of all of the factors listed above on a diamond’s visual performance, it is a simple yet vital tool in evaluating a diamond.

Cut grade should be a primary consideration when evaluating a diamond. Only when comparing two diamonds of identical Cut grade should the individual components of Cut (such as girdle width, symmetry, polish, depth%, table %, and culet size) be used as further refinements or tie breakers.

A note of caution:

Unlike the other “Cs” ( carat weightcolor, and clarity), the various Cut grades in existence today were not originated by GIA, and are not uniformly applied. In fact, GIA has only been assigning cut grades since 2005, and only to round diamonds.

Even though retailers use common terms to describe Cut (such as Excellent, Very Good, Fair, Poor) the terms are not uniformly defined or applied. In fact, a diamond seller may assign any cut grade they choose, based on any set of factors they wish. One retailer will use terms such as “Signature Ideal”, “Ideal”, and “Excellent”; while another uses “Ideal” to describe all three, and another uses “Excellent” for all. Be cautious when comparing cut grades from different sources, as they are most likely inconsistent.

To avoid confusion or misrepresentation of any diamond, Lumera uses the same cut grades as employed by GIA, and does not engage in “cut inflation” by creating other grades (“signature”, “super ideal”, etc.).

Also, be aware of diamond sellers who assign their own cut grades in place of what GIA has already assigned to a particular diamond. Many popular websites and retail stores display their own, more generous Cut rating, in place of the GIA grade.

Buying Tip:

Cut grade is the most important factor in determining the overall appearance of a diamond, because a poorly cut diamond will seem dull even with excellent clarity andcolor. Conversely, a well cut diamond can have a slightly lower color (G-H) or clarity (SI1-SI2) and still look quite beautiful, due to its superior ability to create sparkle and brilliance.

For superior brilliance, choose a diamond with a Cut grade of Very Good or Excellent for round diamonds, and Good or better in fancy shape diamonds. When choosing a diamond in this range, make sure its Symmetry and Polish are Very Good or Excellent, so that the impact of the above average Cut is not obscured.

For those on a budget, primarily concerned with size, a diamond of Fair – Good cut may be an acceptable choice, especially in fancy shapes. While the diamond will lack the scintillation and brilliance of a well cut diamond, it will allow a significant increase in size for the same price.

Avoid Poor cut diamonds, even if size is the primary concern. Most find these diamonds to be an unacceptable trade off, despite the lower price. iDo Jewellery does not offer Poor cut diamonds.

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Ask anyone what to look for in a loose diamond, and you immediately hear about the 4 C’s: cut, color, clarity, and carat. The 4 C’s are the very measures used by diamond grading laboratories and appraisers to assign value to diamonds. It is important to take note, though, that the application of these grading requirements may vary from one gemological lab to another or one appraiser to another. For instance, while the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) may assign an SI1 clarity grade to a specific diamond, the European Gemological Laboratory (EGL) could give the exact same diamond an SI2 rating. That is just a hint of the subjectivity that is practiced in diamond grading, and it gets even more subjective in the world of appraisals. The Holloway Cut Advisor (HCA) rating tool is no exception to this subjective grading scheme. In this article, we put HCA cut rating standards to the test by comparing it to the most trusted industry standard: GIA


HCA is an alternative cut rating tool mostly used by web-based diamond traders and shoppers as it is easily accessible online. Compared to the more renowned diamond grading entities like EGL and GIA, HCA is a cheaper way to rate the cut of a diamond.


HCA works by estimating a diamond’s potential light return, scintillation, fire, and spread after utilizing some basic information regarding a diamond. This information includes overall depth percentage, average crown height or angles, table percentage, average pavilion depth or angles, and culet size.

As per countless observations of gemologists in the industry, there are setbacks to the Holloway Cut Advisor that need mentioning. For one, there are many standards not accounted for by HCA cut rating. These include craftsmanship, cut precision (traditional symmetry), digging and painting, among others. In addition, the HCA process is entirely dependent on computer models. No living person ever rates the diamond based on its actual appearance.It is important to note that HCA ratings are often inconsistent—sometimes rating two identical stones differently, which raises serious questions about the algorithms used by the HCA computer models.


In contrast to the limited attributes used by HCA, the GIA Cut Grade rating has three major criteria which cover a more comprehensive list of quality indicators. These include face-up appearance, craftsmanship, and design. With face-up appearance, standards like brightness, scintillation, and fire are measured. Craftsmanship looks for details regarding symmetry and polish. And design delves into durability and weight ratio. Cut ratings include Poor, Fair, Good, Very Good, and Excellent. These grading standards are obviously more descriptive, thus easier to interpret.


Furthermore, GIA grades diamond cut via a predictive computer model which takes into account approximately 38.5 million proportion indicators and at least 70,000 specific diamond quality observations. This breakthrough system is just one of the many practices and technologies that gives GIA Cut Grade more credibility. Admittedly, the use of such a reliable system is also the reason why a GIA diamond certificate costs a little more, and why the company has strict standards when it comes to grading diamonds. The final advantage to a GIA examination is the human factor that comes from a real gemologist putting their eyes and hands on the diamond to ensure that their computer analysis didn’t miss a thing. What better way to confirm the quality of a stone than by actually seeing all of the characteristics that make it great?


In the end, for the most discriminating and discerning buyers, the tried and tested GIA Cut Grade is still the most sought-after and reliable guarantee of cut quality.

What Is A GIA Diamond ?

As mentioned above, a GIA diamond is really shorthand diamond sellers use to describe diamonds that have been graded by GIA. GIA is an independent, nonprofit organization that conducts gem research, educates gem professionals and sets the standards for determining diamond quality. One of GIA’s main functions is the grading of diamonds. You may have already heard or learned about the 4Cs of diamond quality: colorclaritycut and carat weight. GIA created this standard, along with the scientific procedures for evaluating each “C” and the grading terminology used to describe them.

GIA does not mine diamonds, nor does it buy, sell or trade them commercially. It doesn’t appraise diamonds and is not otherwise involved in diamond pricing or valuation. GIA operates independently of these commercial interests, ensuring that its diamond quality assessments are completely objective and unbiased.

If you want to know the quality of the diamond you’re considering – and you should, because quality and price go hand in hand – then you should look for GIA-graded diamonds and the GIA diamond grading reports that will accompany them.

What Does It Mean For A Diamond To Be A “GIA Certified Diamond”?

“GIA certified diamond” is a misnomer. GIA doesn’t certify diamonds – it grades them. The terms “GIA certified” and “GIA cert” are commonly used in the jewelry industry to refer to diamonds that have undergone GIA’s rigorous grading process and to the reports that accompany them.

GIA itself does not use the word “certificate” to describe the document it issues. GIA examines the diamond, assesses its qualities based on the 4Cs, and describes it. It does not certify the diamond or its value. Rather, like other scientific laboratories, GIA issues a report on the results of its evaluation of a particular diamond and believes “report” is the appropriate term to describe its grading results.

Diamond with 1ct up will have a longer and more detailed information on GIA certificate.

Dossier diamond below 1ct GIA certificate

Now i will guide you through how iDo Jewellery selects our diamonds using a few guides. We do not just select our diamonds based on just GIA certificate, we gobeyond that.The bottom link is a quick understanding between 2 exact same specification diamonds. However there are huge difference if there is slight difference in proportion (cutting).


The crafting of IDO SUPERIOR diamonds is aimed at the very heart of GIA 0 parameters representing a very narrow subset of the overall GIA Excellent cut grade category. Majority of the cutters sacrifices the light performances of a diamond to yield heavier carat. For our diamonds, which you can select any diamonds with ease as we have filtered before we post them on the website.
For our IDO SUPERIOR diamonds, it will normally fall within a specific range of measurement. In rare cases, it is possible for an IDO SUPERIOR to exceed one or more of these specifications, but only if the light performance analytics are superb which is unlikely.

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Crown Angle

Pavilion Angle



Polish Grade

Symmetry Grade


57 – 63

52 – 62

31.5 – 36.5

40.6 – 41.8

N – P – S – M

T – M – ST




59 – 62.5

55- 58

34 – 36

40.6 – 40.8


T – M – ST




There are a significant practical benefits of selecting IDO SUPERIOR DIAMOND; It insures the diamond will be a top performer in all possible lighting conditions. No matter how many articles you have read, you will still have doubt when you are given a whole lot of diamonds to select. The benefit of owning an IDO SUPERIOR diamond is experienced every moment of every day with every glance of every eye & purchase with ease because we have filtered them for you!


iDo Jewellery will provide a set of images & video of an actual diamond that enable a complete understanding of each and every diamond we select handles light. We provide a magnified face up image of the diamond that can reveal certain aspects of clarity and patterning, and another 360 video that reveals to some extent its dynamic potential to deliver fire and brilliance.
In addition, we provide actual ASET and Idealscope images that reveal critical aspects of light return and light leakage. Any significant amount of light leakage detected by these tests will be grounds for disqualification. This fact also explains why these images tend to look very similar throughout the IDO SUPERIOR category.


It could be argued that any internal inclusions block some light rays as they pass through the diamond and would therefore diminish light performance. In theory this is true but in practice many inclusions are so minute as to have negligible effect on performance. This is especially true in the upper gemological grades. In the Slightly Included grades, diminished light performance can be an issue, even if cutting is perfect. Therefore, one of the critical assessments the iDo Jewellery gemological review team makes is to look for any deleterious effects that might be present as a result of clarity features. Depending on several factors such as inclusion type, location, size and density, some diamonds will appear slightly “sleepy” or not as “crisp” as they other. This can be a very subtle effect and one that is not contained on any grading report.

For perhaps even more obvious reasons, IDO SUPERIOR diamonds are carefully inspected for any clarity issues that would give rise to structural weakness. A diamond with a feather or other clarity feature that in our assessment poses an elevated durability risk for mounting or wear will not be allowed in the brand.
Indented natural, chip are “flaws” which dips below the polished diamond’s surface. An indented natural is a part of the rough diamond that was left untouched during the polishing process and is usually found at the girdle.

Defects that can be controlled by the cutting process are not allowed. For instance, diamonds with chips or scratches mentioned on the lab report will disqualify a diamond from IDO SUPERIOR. Extra facets are not allowed in IDO SUPERIOR rounds as they often represent a “shortcut” that a cutter has taken to repair a chip or remove an inclusion. Diamonds with any such deficits are not allowed.


A large percentage of mined diamonds exhibit a property called fluorescence. When exposed to ultraviolet light, they will glow. Usually the color is blue. Because fluorescence can reduce market value, and in some cases actually diminish light performance, IDO SUPERIOR diamonds must have None fluorescence.

Diamonds may be the hardest substance on earth, but they are not indestructible. While they can be cut or polished only by another diamond, a hard blow can cause them to chip. Never wear your diamond jewelry when doing rough work.



Don’t store your diamond jewelry next to other jewelry pieces as this can cause scratches. A fabric-lined jewelry case with separate compartments is Ideal. You can also individually wrap jewelry in soft tissue paper or use jewelry pouches for each piece.

Regularly inspect your diamond jewelry to make sure the setting is secure. Promptly bring it to a professional jeweler if you notice any signs of damage or loosening of the prongs. It’s a good idea to have your diamond jewelry examined at least once a year by a professional jeweler. In addition to performing any necessary repair work, your jeweler can expertly clean your jewelry.

Everyday exposure to creams, skin oils, hairspray, household chemicals and other substances can cause buildup that will dull your diamond’s brilliance and sparkle. Use a solution of warm water mixed with a few drop of ammonia in which to soak your diamond jewelry. Gentle scrubbing with an old, soft-bristled toothbrush is useful for more extensive cleaning. Rinse and dry with a clean soft cloth.



So how can you keep your diamond looking its very best? Here are some tips on diamond care:

  • Handle your diamond sparingly, as your fingers provide enough oil from your skin to alter the way your diamond looks.
  • Clean your diamond regularly. A simple plan to keep your diamond jewelry always looking beautiful is to soak the diamond in an ammonia-based household cleaner (such as window cleaner) overnight, once or twice weekly. In the morning, remove the diamond from the cleaner and brush it with a soft, clean toothbrush to remove any leftover dirt. Take extra care to brush the back of the diamond as this will be the area that has collected the most oil and dirt.
  • Be aware that fragile settings and estate jewelry won’t take kindly to being scrubbed with a toothbrush, so use a soft touch. Then, just rinse the diamond with water and wipe with a soft, lint-free cloth.
  • Don’t use harmful solutions. Chlorine or abrasives should never be used when cleaning diamonds, especially those set in jewelry. These erode some of the metals often used in diamond settings, and may loosen prongs, or even dissolve the metal completely.

Sometimes an ultrasonic cleaner is necessary to remove encrusted dirt on diamonds. By sending high frequency sound waves through a detergent solution, ultrasonic cleaners cause vibrating fluid to remove accumulated dirt and grime. However, they can also shake loose stones from their mounting, so this method shouldn’t be used on fragile settings, and is best undertaken by a professional jeweler.

Regular cleaning will keep your diamond jewelry in gleaming condition and ready to sparkle on that special occasion.



Even though you may wear your diamond engagement ring 24 hours a day, you should still give thought to its care.

  • Don’t wear it when you’re doing rough work or going to the gym. Even though a diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow.
  • Don’t let your diamond come in contact with a chlorine bleach when you’re doing household chores. It can damage and discolor the mounting.
  • Do see your jeweler at least once a year and have him check your ring and other precious pieces for loose prongs and wear of mountings. He’ll usually give them a professional “shine-up” too.



  • When you’re not wearing diamonds and precious jewelry, they still require attention. Keep your precious pieces in a fabric-lined jewel case, or a box with compartments or dividers.
  • lf you prefer to use ordinary boxes, wrap each piece individually in tissue paper.
  • Don’t jumble your diamond pieces in a drawer or jewelry case, because diamonds can scratch other jewelry-and can even scratch each other.
  • Don’t leave your ring on the rim of a sink when you remove it to wash your hands. It can easily slip down the drain.

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For nearly 100 years, akoya pearls grown off the coast of Japan have been the classic pearl of choice. When one pictures a round strand of white pearls, they are usually thinking of akoya.

Although rare baroque shapes and natural colors like silver-blue and gold do exist, akoya pearls are best known for their perfectly round shape and sharp, reflective luster.

While exceptions do exist, most akoya pearls produced today range in sizes from 4 to 10 mm.

If you are looking for a classic strand of round, white pearls, you are probably looking for a strand of akoya pearls.


Grown primarily in Australia the Philippines and Indonesia and ranging in color from white to gold, South Sea pearls are the largest saltwater pearls grown today.

Because of their tremendous size, perfectly round South Sea pearls are quite rare. Other more common shapes are drops, baroques and ovals. All are considered very valuable.

While South Sea pearls range in size from 8 mm to 18 mm, the most common sizes range from 10 mm to 14 mm.

If you looking for the statement piece of jewelry with large pearls, South Sea may be the way to go.


Tahitian pearls grown in French Polynesia are the only naturally dark pearls. Although often referred to as black, Tahitian pearls come in a rainbow of exotic colors.

Round Tahitian pearls are quite rare but other fun shapes like drops, baroques and ovals are highly-sought and still considered very valuable.

When measured perpendicular to the drill hole, most Tahitians range in size from 8 mm to 15 mm regardless of shape.

If you are looking for a naturally dark pearls that go well with almost any style, Tahitian pearls may be your best choice.


The most affordable pearls sold today, freshwater pearls are known for baroque shapes, white and pastel body colors and softer luster than akoya (except in the case of rare metallics).

With natural pastel colors and shapes that range from perfectly round to free-form baroque, freshwater pearls offer a widest range of options.

Common sizes range from 5 mm to 12 mm, but recent advances have led to the development of round and baroque pearls as large as 20 mm.

If you are looking for an affordable piece or something more fashion-forward with unique combinations of colors and shapes, shop freshwater pearls.

Selecting a Pearl

One of the most important considerations in selecting a piece of pearl jewelry is determining the type of pearl that is best suited to your budget and preference. There are two basic varieties of cultured pearls; freshwater and saltwater. Freshwater pearls are grown primarily in man-made lakes and reservoirs in China. Saltwater pearls, which include akoya, Tahitian and South Sea, are grown in bays, inlets and atolls in many places around the world. Saltwater pearls are considered more valuable than freshwater pearls, although rare and very high-quality freshwater pearls can be exceedingly valuable.


Grading Pearls

Pearl grading is one of the most difficult aspects of pearl selection to understand. There is no officially recognized, standard system for grading pearls, except in the case of Tahitian pearls, where grading and export is controlled by the French Polynesian government. For that reason, it is important to understand the grading used by the company from which you purchase. A detailed explanation of luster, surface, shape and color is necessary to make an educated purchase decision.

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Solitaire Engagement Rings

A solitaire ring setting features a single stone, typically a diamond with a plain mounting (usually four or six prongs). Solitaires are one of the most popular engagement ring settings. Their appeal is in their elegance, simplicity, and timelessness. Solitaire engagement rings come in a variety of sizes and styles. Some have narrower bands which have the effect of making a smaller diamond appear larger, and compliment small fingers. Others have thicker bands which allow for more options in the way the diamond is set. Many solitaire rings have ring guards (or rings wraps) which frame the center diamond, making it appear more prominent.


Pavé Engagement Rings

A pavé engagement ring is encrusted with very small diamonds all along the band to give the appearance of a solid diamond surface. Because pave-set diamonds use only tiny beads or prongs to hold them in place, very little of the metal band shows through and the diamonds appear to be free-standing. Pave settings can either go around the whole band (full pave) or stop halfway around it (half pave). Micro pave rings are even more delicate and intricate than regular pave settings. The individual stones are so small that they appear to blend together and create extraordinary fire. Typically, round brilliant or princess cut diamonds are used as center stones in pave engagement rings. Most center stones are prong-set, basket-set or bezel-set.

Channel Set Engagement Rings

Channel set engagement rings feature side diamonds that are embedded into the channel groove of the ring. A thin strip of metal secures the diamonds in place—no prongs are used. The diamonds are flush with the band and as a result, channel set rings are sturdier than other designs and less likely to snag on clothing. Channel settings are available in gold and platinum, with a variety of diamond shapes and cuts. When it comes to picking the right channel stones for your channel ring, princess cut is a popular choice, as its square edges ensure no gaps between the stones.


Sidestone Engagement Rings

Sidestone engagement ring settings provide a perfect complement to a center stone and typically consist of a center diamond flanked by two or more smaller-sized side diamonds. Because sidestones add size and brilliance to the center diamond, they make the overall appearance of the engagement ring more impressive and radiant. When it comes to selecting a center diamond for an engagement ring with side stones, round brilliant or princess cut diamonds are typically chosen, although most diamond shapes can be used.


Three-Stone Engagement Rings

Three stone engagement rings consist of a center diamond flanked by two side diamonds, which accentuate the size and brilliance of the center diamond.The center stone is usually set higher to complement the side stones and add depth to the ring. Round or princess cut diamonds are the most popular choices for center stones. Most center stones are prong-set, basket-set or bezel-set, as these settings effectively distinguish the center diamond from the setting.


Halo Engagement Rings

Halo engagement ring settings feature a center gemstone surrounded by smaller, micro pave diamonds. The smaller diamonds give the appearance of size and volume to the center stone, adding to the ring’s overall sparkle. Traditional halo engagement rings are a more modern take on the classic solitaire ring, while vintage-style halo rings focus on the micro pave and milgrain detailing along the band. Halo engagement rings come in all shapes and sizes of center stones. Some feature round stones, asscher-cut diamonds, pear-shaped and oval diamonds. Halo rings often feature colored gemstones, like blue sapphires or red rubies.

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How To Measure Your Ring Size

Step by step:

  1. Print the PDF file in 100%
  2. Tally the prepared measuring tape on top of the PDF file with a ruler to check if it is printed accurately
  3. Cut the strip out
  4. Measure on your finger

P/s: Do not stretch your finger while measuring. Make sure it is not loose nor too tight.
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